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Maria Luisa

(THIS RESTAURANT HAS CLOSED.) Maria Luisa is a family operation, and it shows. The place has a lot of heart. The casual Italian pizzeria/restaurant is warm, friendly and has its roots in Calabria. You'll be happy with the hot antipasto, which includes baked clams, eggplant rollatine, stuffed mushrooms and asparagus wrapped with ham and fontina; or the mozzarella in carrozza, deep-fried and tasty. Salads are good, especially the field greens spiked with Gorgonzola cheese. Pastas to look for include ravioli in pesto, bowtie pasta with roasted peppers and sausage in a creamy tomato sauce, and capellini tossed with tomato-basil sauce. Chicken piccata and sole sauteed with peppers, onions and olives in white wine sauce head the entrees. The brick-oven pizzas are led by the basic Margherita, along with the Calabrese pie capped with sausage, broccoli rabe, cherry peppers and pecorino cheese; and the puttanesca, with tomatoes, capers, olives and garlic. The familiar Neapolitan and Sicilian pies also are available. Heartier appetites should consider the stuffed piuzzas, too.