Maria's, warm, friendly and to the point, brings Mexican and Latin flavors to the corner of Lake Avenue and Smithtown Boulevard. It's an unpretentious, popular place. Sit at the bar and have a margarita while waiting for your table, as you will on a Friday or Saturday night. And then try the quesadillas stuffed with chorizo sausage, sauteed chorizo with mushrooms and pimentos, or shrimps in garlic sauce. Also recommended: black bean soup, fried green plantains, and sweet plantains stuffed with meat and cheese. Cuban-style roast pork and tender ropa vieja, or shredded beef, are very good. The competition comes from paellas, chicken with rice, and fajitas and chimichangas, as well as the familiar taco-burrito-enchilada combos. Good flan for dessert.