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Market Bistro in Jericho and more Long Island restaurants to try this weekend

The organic chicken with vegetables, spaetzle, and thyme

The organic chicken with vegetables, spaetzle, and thyme jus at Market Bistro in Jericho. Photo Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

The word "bistro" is redefined regularly on Long Island. Here are three variations on the theme, each very good or better in its own way.

Market Bistro in Jericho is a New Amertican-style restaurant that makes more than a few flavorful side trips. Recommended: cheeseburger; onion soup; tuna tartare; bison sliders; grilled octopus salad; skillet-roasted chicken; roasted Berkshire pork chop; pan-seared strip steak; market pickles; beet-and-goat cheese salad; coconut-lemongrass mussels and fries. Moderate to expensive.

Market Bistro, 519 N. Broadway, Jericho, 516-513-1487, marketbistroli.com

Sage Bistro in Bellmore describes itself as French but also decides to cross borders to good effect. Recommended: raw oysters; seafood salad; Baja fish tacos; fried calamari; sirloin burger; filet mignon sliders; duck rillettes; mussels mariniere; shrimp cocktail; sole meuniere, beef Bourguignonne; grilled hanger steak. Moderate.

Sage Bistro, 2620 Merrick Rd., Bellmore, 516-679-8928, bistrosage.com

Almond in Bridgehampton, consistently excellent, is a year-round treat, not just a summer reverie. Recommended: bay scallops, any style; curried mussels; chicken liver pate; celery root veloute; steak frites; rack of lamb; pan-roasted cod with leek vinaigrette; kimchee rice and egg; Korean-style short rib; cacio e pepe pasta with winter truffles; "le grand" macaroni and cheese. Moderate to expensive.

Almond, 1 Ocean Rd., Bridgehampton, 631-537-5665, almondrestaurant.com

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