The word "bistro" is redefined regularly on Long Island. Here are three variations on the theme, each very good or better in its own way.
Market Bistro in Jericho is a New Amertican-style restaurant that makes more than a few flavorful side trips. Recommended: cheeseburger; onion soup; tuna tartare; bison sliders; grilled octopus salad; skillet-roasted chicken; roasted Berkshire pork chop; pan-seared strip steak; market pickles; beet-and-goat cheese salad; coconut-lemongrass mussels and fries. Moderate to expensive.
Market Bistro, 519 N. Broadway, Jericho, 516-513-1487, marketbistroli.com
Sage Bistro in Bellmore describes itself as French but also decides to cross borders to good effect. Recommended: raw oysters; seafood salad; Baja fish tacos; fried calamari; sirloin burger; filet mignon sliders; duck rillettes; mussels mariniere; shrimp cocktail; sole meuniere, beef Bourguignonne; grilled hanger steak. Moderate.
Sage Bistro, 2620 Merrick Rd., Bellmore, 516-679-8928, bistrosage.com
Almond in Bridgehampton, consistently excellent, is a year-round treat, not just a summer reverie. Recommended: bay scallops, any style; curried mussels; chicken liver pate; celery root veloute; steak frites; rack of lamb; pan-roasted cod with leek vinaigrette; kimchee rice and egg; Korean-style short rib; cacio e pepe pasta with winter truffles; "le grand" macaroni and cheese. Moderate to expensive.
Almond, 1 Ocean Rd., Bridgehampton, 631-537-5665, almondrestaurant.com