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Melville: Where’s the crab?

Lobster and crab salad at Blackstone Steakhouse in

Lobster and crab salad at Blackstone Steakhouse in Melville. Newsday photo / Erica Marcus (April 7, 2011) Photo Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

Grabbed a quick lunch at Blackstone’s sushi bar today. Companion had two spicy tuna rolls that she declared exemplary. I had this “lobster and crab salad” composed, according to the menu, of Maine lobster, lump crab, mesclun, tomatoes, green beans and avocado. All present and accounted for, but what was the Silly String all over the top? On closer inspection, I realized it was shredded crab stick (Japanese: kani).

Obscuring real crab with fake crab is like upholstering a Chippendale chair with polyester fabric (sort of). Nor can I figure out who the “target audience” for such a salad would be. Real crab is wasted on the diner who likes fake crab, and fake crab is anathema to the diner (e.g., me) who ordered the salad because it was billed as containing real crab. Who wants to engage in such a philosophical debate over lunch? (Well, me again, I guess.)

On the bright side, creamed spinach was excellent. Service was friendly and brisk.

Blackstone Steakhouse is at 10 Pinelawn Rd., Melville, 631-271-7780.

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