Meridian Kitchen in Locust Valley: First Bites

Sushi, pizza, tuna tacos, rigatoni alla vodka, burgers, cannoli and apple brown Betty. There's a lot going on at Meridian Kitchen. What counts is that a lot of it is good.

This refreshing, east-west eatery recently took over the ex-site of Bennett's, just north of the railroad tracks. And the result is bigger and brighter, more comfortable and upbeat.

Meridian already is a gathering spot for locals, attracted by the outgoing style and the eclectic menu. Try the blackened tuna tacos, loaded with flavor and crunch; and the colorful Aquarius roll, with spicy tuna and avocado. The pork-filled gyoza also are fine.

Worth a visit.

Meridian Kitchen, 23 Birch Hill Rd., Locust Valley; 516-676-2620.

Yellowtail with jalapeno at Meridian Kitchen.