There’s no doubt about the specialty of the house at Merrick Sea: The windows flanking the front door are practically obscured by two stylized lobsters.
The new Chinese restaurant takes over the Merrick Avenue storefront that was, most recently, Sogo Sushi Asian Bistro.
The lobster section of the menu includes Chinese dishes like lobster with ginger and scallion and salt and pepper lobster (both $32.95) as well as American-style steamed lobster with coleslaw and French fries ($28) and a combination dinner that includes a 1 ½-pound lobster plus clams and mussels ($42.95).
All the expected Chinese dishes are present and accounted for: sesame chicken, orange beef, shrimp with lobster sauce. But a close look at the menu reveals plenty of dishes that are rarer on Long Island: beef and tripe in chili sauce, tea-smoked duck, double-cooked pork belly, spicy beef with cumin. Most mains are well under $20, appetizers are all under $10.
Merrick Sea is at 151 Merrick Ave., Merrick, 516-705-6021, merricksea.com.