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Mi Viejito Pueblito taqueria opens in Huntington Station

Among the tacos at Mi Viejito Pueblito are

Among the tacos at Mi Viejito Pueblito are al pastor (marinated pork, left) and lengua (tongue, right). Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Whenever I’m driving on New York Avenue between Jericho Turnpike and Depot Road in Huntington Station, I keep my eyes peeled for new eats. That's because the stretch boasts a wealth of pupuserias, rotisseries, full-fledged restaurants and delis with steam tables, most of them serving a mix of Latin cuisines.

The other day, while stopped by a traffic crew in front of the Huntington Manor Fire Department, I espied a sign announcing the grand opening of Mi Viejito Pueblito.

The neat little eatery, whose name translates, roughly, to “my little old town,” is a rarity in the neighborhood because the small menu is exclusively Mexican — no Salvadoran pupusas or Tex-Mex fajitas (or even salads, for that matter).

Tacos are $2.50 apiece, and I sampled two of the nine types: the lengua (tongue) was tender, but not overly stewed, showered with cilantro and onions. The al pastor (marinated pork) was just as good, not done on a vertical rotisserie as is strictly traditional, but it was properly spiced and served with a big slab of fresh pineapple. The plate itself was garnished with a grilled scallion and a tangle of pickled nopales (cactus pads) and onions.

The tortillas used for the tacos are packaged, but very good. For quesadillas ($6), however, the cooks press their own tortillas, griddle them and fill with either chicken, chicharron (pork skin), mushrooms, cecina (salted beef), chorizo or steak. There’s no melted cheese in the quesadillas; instead they are topped with fresh Mexican cheese, crema and lettuce.

There are also sopes and huaraches (thicker, more substantial tacos), burritos and tortas (Mexican sandwiches), breakfast specialties and a handful of meat platters served with rice and beans ($14.60).

Hours are 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Mi Viejito Pueblito is at 1687 New York Ave., Huntington Station, 631-470-0396.

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