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Mill Pond House

Diners take in the view while eating outdoors

Diners take in the view while eating outdoors at Mill Pond House in Centerport. (Aug. 26, 2011) Photo Credit: Daniel Brennan

There's an easy way to enjoy eating on Long Island. Just keep following chef David Intonato.

Intonato, whose cooking starred at Jamesport Manor Inn in 2009, now is executive chef at Mill Pond House. He has broadened and improved the steak-and-seafood, Italian-and-sushi restaurant's repertoire. You still can come here for all that. But Intonato energizes the specials and makes the veteran seem new again.

The waterside location has always has been part of the appeal here. The restaurant sits on a curve of Route 25A overlooking Mill Pond and, in the distance, Northport Bay. Dine inside or out. Enjoy summer's twilight.

Intonato ensures you'll be back in autumn, too.

THE BEST

An opener of "burnt ends" elevates the idea by using filet mignon, while adding caramelized onions, wild mushrooms and barbecue sauce. You may not reach the level of ecstasy Calvin Trillin found at Arthur Bryant's in Kansas City, but this enriched version is very good. Lobster home fries takes a still-questionable concept and makes it work: tender lobster meat with caramelized onions, hot cherry peppers and

Sriracha-sparked crème fraîche. KK Farm tomatoes boost an heirloom salad. Seared yellowfin tuna does the same for sake shuga maki, paired with avocado, salmon and ginger vinaigrette. Standout main courses include a thick cut of splashingly fresh, roasted Montauk swordfish, capped with miso-wasabi aioli and panko bread crumbs; and terrific, buttery lobster stuffed with lump crabmeat and toasted bread crumbs -- a perfect version of a much-abused dish. Sweet corn puree boosts the plump, pan-seared diver scallops. Good strip steak, grilled pork chop, assorted sushi rolls; better "twice roasted" Crescent Farm duck. And have a banana split for dessert, with serious gelati.

THE REST

Standard baked clams oreganata, linguine with clam sauce, sauteed calamari, salads, rice pudding.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Room with a viewpoint.

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