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Mirabelle Tavern

Eating at Mirabelle Tavern is easy: Come in the morning, stay all day. Guy Reuge's opening act at the Three Village Inn encourages leisure. The star chef, who closed the original Mirabelle last year, jump-starts appetites and invigorates the Inn. Reuge expects to revive haute Mirabelle here, too, in a separate space. But the casual Tavern already makes the Inn a destination anew, now for contemporary American cuisine with a French twist defined by Reuge's signature precision. The room also is brighter and airier; the service, better. Just get rid of those ripped, brown-paper place mats.

THE BEST

Start with the creamy egg en cocotte, a baked delight, especially when paired with recklessly rich braised pork belly; or the elemental, flaky quiche Lorraine. Alternatives: warm asparagus with tangy sauce Gribiche; and smoked-and-fresh salmon rillettes on toasted brioche. The addictive little basket of zucchini fritters with chickpea fries arrives with a red-pepper aioli that the Inn could sell by the jar. Next, maybe the romaine-watercress salad, with matchsticks of apple and flag-waving American blue cheese. There's well-seasoned chicken potpie for some refined homeyness; and Reuge's perfectly seared, rosy duck breast that's no canard. The pulled-pork sandwich with cabbage-apple slaw, Kobe-style beef sliders, charcuterie selection, and grilled lamb chops with eggplant caviar all are recommended. Likewise the excellent grilled shell steak with honey-roasted shallots and bracing beef bourguignonne. For dessert, caramel-sea salt ice cream overshadows the top-billed chocolate mousse cake. Try the ginger-almond tart - a memory of Mirabelle.

THE REST

Skippable flammkuchen, a smoked-bacon, onion and creme fraiche-capped thin-crust pizza; the garlic sausage; and bland crab cake. Fish-and-chips made with branzino?

THE BOTTOM LINE

Spring awakening.

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