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Miraj in Williston Park still rocking

At Miraj Healthy Grill in Williston Park, the

At Miraj Healthy Grill in Williston Park, the Kabob Sultani includes both barg (beef strips) and kobideh (ground beef) kebabs, Sept. 23, 2014. Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

It had been a while since we’d been back to Miraj Healthy Grill, along that particularly fruitful stretch of Hillside Avenue that boasts SriPraPhai, Hildebrandt’s, Fresco Creperie and Sweet to Lick Bakery, among other chow-worthy establishments.

But the four-year-old restaurant is firing on all cylinders. On a Tuesday night, most tables were occupied, many with Farsi speakers. And what looked like a Persian soap opera (muted) played on a flat-screen TV.

Our meal was hearty and soulful, starting off with kashkeh bodemjan, a mellow, silky-smooth dip of eggplant and tomato, drizzled with yogurt and a bright chopped Shirazi salad of ripe tomatoes, cucumber, onion and parsley. Of the kebabs we ordered, the jujeh (bone-in pieces of Cornish hen), barg (strips of beef) and kobideh (ground beef) were enviably juicy and full of flavor but were nevertheless bested by the terrific lamb kebab, big chunks of lamb cooked to a perfect medium-rare.

All kebabs are served alongside a huge pile of basmati rice; none costs more than $17.

I never understood why the owners of Miraj appended “Healthy Grill” to the restaurant's name; “Miraj Excellent Persian Grill” might be a bit more descriptive.

Miraj Healthy Grill is at 171 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, 516-747-3181.