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Momofuku Milk Bar in Montauk: A taste of sugar

Momofuku Milk Bar in Montauk

Momofuku Milk Bar in Montauk

Situated in a courtyard off Cynthia Rowley’s Montauk boutique is the “makeshift” summer version of chef David Chang’s Momofoku Milk Bar, with five New York City locations. On a recent summer day, the place proved easier to find than to like.

What it is, actually, no more than an outdoor stand. Order, grab and go. Nowhere, really, to sit — and no shade from the broiling sun.

Iced Stumptown coffee was very good, but no decaffeinated version is offered. I don’t quite get the appeal of pastry chef Christina Tosi’s “compost” cookies ($2 each; 3 for $5), sweet-salty oatmeal discs that include pretzels and potato chips — both with artificial flavors — in the mix of  ingredients. “Crack pie ($5.25),” allegedly the stuff of addiction, is a butterscotch confection that’s all about the sugar shock. What won me over, though, was a “cereal milk” slushie ($6), made with milk that’s been steeped in cold cereal — the stuff that's left in the bottom of your breakfast bowl. On a brutally hot day, it was icy-cold and curiously appealing.

Momofuku Milk Bar is at 696 Montauk Hwy., Montauk, no phone.
 

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