Montauk Manor, which oversees downtown, the ocean and the bays like a Tudor, has a royal-red (sauce) restaurant this season: Tre Bella.
You'll spot the sign for it while en route to Montauk harbor. It's worth visiting the Manor, now a condominium and resort, for the grand perspective and the charm of the Old World building. The Manor has one of the grand entry areas on Long Island. This was, after all, the centerpiece of developer Carl Fisher's vision of Montauk as Miami Beach north. The Manor opened in 1927, complete with ballrooms and celebrities.
Tre Bella is situated in a far less dramatic space than that entrance. It's a conventional dining room with alfresco on the side. The banquet you'll have here is Italian-American, emphasis on tomatoes. That said, you'll find good eggplant Parmigiana and hefty spaghetti and meatballs; not-so-spicy shrimp fra diavolo and light tilapia oreganata. Cheesecake is the main sweet.
But visiting the Manor is a kind of dessert: history a la carte.
Tre Bella at Montauk Manor, 236 Edgemere St., Montauk; 631-668-4400.