Something old and something new add up to something very good in Montauk.
And, equally important, they're open well beyond Labor Day.
New is The Harbor Raw Bar & Lounge, which brings a minimalist look and a lot of flavor to the harbor area. Chef Pierre Rougey previously cooked at Barrique and now-gone Emerson's in Babylon. Here, he specializes in small plates.
Recommended: lustrous Montauk fluke crudo, with pink grapefruit and Sichuan-spice oil and tuna carpaccio with soba noodle salad; surf-and-turf tacos starring fried fluke and spicy pork; short-rib sliders with fontina cheese and tomato marmalade; and "drunken" lobster flambeed in whiskey-tarragon sauce. Fine oysters, too, from locals to Malpeques and Beausoleils.
Post-dinner, The Harbor becomes a nightlife magnet and a mixologist's funhouse.
Ruschmeyer's is a name familiar to anyone who has visited Montauk over the decades. The resort currently sports a sharp, contemporary restaurant in a dining room that evokes an updated upstate lodge, complete with a water view.
Enjoy the smoked bluefish salad, accented with creme fraiche, radish and dill; shishito peppers flecked with bottarga; and crostini topped with heirloom tomatoes, housemade ricotta and basil.
Try the clam fritters with bacon-thyme aioli. Nibble on a wood-fired pizza, either a tasty Margherita or a satisfying clam pie with chilies, oregano, bacon and garlic. Have a meaty lobster roll or splashy striped bass with chorizo, heirloom beans, littlenecks and saffron.
You can effortlessly reach $50 to $75 per person at either spot. But you won't mind, either.
The Harbor Raw Bar & Lounge, 440 West Lake Dr., Montauk; 631-668-8260.
Ruschmeyer's Hotel Kitchen Bar, 162 Second House Rd., Montauk; 631-668-2877.