The classic Montauk bumper sticker reads "The End." And the easternmost spot on Long Island is a beachy place for summer's unofficial finale,
The Harvest on Fort Pond and East by Northeast are veteran, sibling restaurants that have undergone significant changes since they were reviewed in the last century.
Harvest has kept the family-style approach exclusively in season and has become more Italian. Go for the grilled pizza, especially the one capped with crisp eggplant, ricotta and mozzarella Then, share a salad, maybe the watercress-blue cheese number. The pastas are led by penne tossed with sauteed asparagus, mushrooms and creamy mascarpone cheese.
At East by Northeast, the compass has veered toward American fare but you also will find plenty of Asian-inspired dishes. Begin with the Montauk chowder, an excellent variation on the New England theme, generous with clams. The whole, braised local black bass stands out, accompanied by fingerling potatoes. And the juicy "North East" burger is an alternative to the steaks. ENE prepares a fine steamed lobster, one that competes favorably in this lobster-centric Zip Code.
And both restaurants provide a sensational sunset.
The Harvest on Fort Pond, 11 S. Emery St., Montauk; 631-668-5577.
East by Northeast, 51 Edgemere St., Montauk; 631-668-2872.