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Moonstone in Great Neck: First bites

Whole red snapper in sweet-and-sour sauce is served

Whole red snapper in sweet-and-sour sauce is served at Moonstone in Great Neck. August 2014. Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

The moonstone, which symbolizes everything from passion and vision to healing and luck, now signifies something even better: very good Chinese food in Great Neck.

Sleek and handsome, Moonstone transforms the Northern Boulevard space close to the Nassau-Queens border long-occupied by Harvest Buffet. More important, the restaurant brings back a taste that has been missing for decades.

The near-demise of high-quality Chinese restaurants in Nassau and Suffolk needs no more chronicling. Just look around. All roads must lead to Flushing.

But get to Great Neck first to feel refreshed. Savor Moonstone's Shanghai-style soup dumplings, filled with pork, crab and delectable broth. Nibble on hoisin-glazed bacon sliders, an update on the classic pork bun. Reel in the whole, crisp red snapper in sweet-sour sauce. Order the one-course Beijing duck and guarantee smiles around the table.

Moonstone also sends out chow mein and lo mein, lemon chicken and beef with broccoli, wonton soup and spare ribs.

Have fun. And maybe chow fun, too.

Moonstone, 14 Northern Blvd., Great Neck; 516-500-1000.

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