Morty's Oyster Stand, under star chef Sam Talbot, is the sharp, stylish successor to Cyril's Fish House in Amagansett.
The site has been transformed, in the design and in the kitchen. But devotees of Cyril Fitzsimon's frosty "BBC" cocktail will find that and much more to imbibe.
Cyril's Fish House closed in 2016, selling off everything including the 12-foot rooftop marlin that identified it on Montauk Highway. The turquoise-and-lime green building has been overhauled, updated, and tinted in subtler hues.
And the food of Sam Talbot, a celebrity on season 2 of Bravo's "Top Chef" and the opening chef of The Surf Lodge in Montauk, brings much more refreshing and ambitious fare to the tables, indoor and alfresco.
Talbot also is a partner in the restaurant, founded and owned by Jeremy Morton, who owns a construction company with projects that include restaurant and hotel renovations.
Diners will find openers such as black bass ceviche, fried Ipswich clams with chile aioli, heirloom tomato salad with watermelon and ricotta salata, and "chili squid" sparked with togarashi, a mixture of Japanese spices, plus jackfruit and watermelon radish. The raw bar selection includes oysters, local and otherwise; broiled oysters; and spicy poached shrimp.
Talbot's main courses range from a lobster roll to a cioppino of Montauk seafood, a daily local catch to fried chicken with spicy honey and celeriac slaw. Grilled hanger steak and zucchini cacio e pepe also are among the large plates.
At lunch, expect fish tacos, an oyster po'boy, a "griddled" chicken sandwich, and a steak sandwich.
Fitzsimon's "BBC," which stands for Baileys Banana Colada, has been kept. Specialty cocktails take in "Triple Trouble" with Michter's bourbon, lemon and blackberries; and "The Car Thief," with Citadelle Gin, Campari, grapefruit, and soda. A notable soft drink: "The Green Room," with celery juice, lime, cane syrup, and soda.
Appetizers are $16 to $27; main courses, $28 to $41; lunch dishes, $16 to $18.
Morty's Oyster Stand is open every day from noon to 9 p.m. Lunch goes from noon to 3:30 p.m.; a happy hour featuring $1.50 oysters and discounted drinks from 4 p.m. to 5 p.m.; and dinner, 5 p.m. to closing.
Morty's Oyster Stand, 2167 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett, 631-668-8355, mortysoysterstand.com