My luck to come upon Mukda Thai Cuisine in Hicksville shortly after having eaten lunch elsewhere. Darn, I thought, immediately intrigued by such menu items as stewed beef tendon soup ($12), barbecued-beef salad ($12) and stewed pork leg with mustard greens over rice ($10). Not the dishes you'd expect to find at your typical suburban house of pad Thai and sweet curries.
A subsequent phone conversation revealed that chef-owner Wisut Kaeoasdangkul and his wife, Mukda, had owned the former Siam House in Hicksville. Back in 2004, Kaeoasdangkul's food had impressed me with its boldness and authenticity.
The new restaurant is situated in a freestanding building that's hosted a string of Indian and Indian-Chinese places. Recently refurbished, it looks both cozy and comfortable.
Mukda Thai Cuisine is at 96 W. Old Country Rd., Hicksville; 516-934-0717