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Munchies Deli in Farmingdale: Super sopes

Sopes are topped with beans, tongue, lettuce, tomato,

Sopes are topped with beans, tongue, lettuce, tomato, cheese and crema at Munchie's Deli in Farmingdale. (Jan. 15, 2014) Credit: Newsday Erica Marcus

Nothing about Munchies Deli looked promising. The name, for one, seemed determined to obscure the fact that this sliver of a storefront serves authentic Mexican and Central American food. The dining room was dark and chilly; the inserts in the steam table held a handbag, papers and a bottle of wine. The only sign of life was a young man sweeping the floor.

But on the menu there was a photo of a sope, a fat, round tortilla topped with refried beans, meat, lettuce, tomato, crema (sour cream) and grated cheese. I brake for sopes, so I sat down and ordered three of them, with lengua (braised tongue). Good call. The sopes themselves had been handmade in the kitchen, then fried to a pleasant greasiness. There was the barest smear of beans, the tongue was silky, the lettuce and tomato fresh, the grated cheese piquant. (Also, the crema was creamy.) Three sopes for $7.50.

Curiously, the sopes came on a pretty blue Fiestaware plate, but was served with a plastic fork.

All the rustic Mexican greatest hits are on the Munchies menu: tacos, tortas, enchiladas, quesadillas, flautas, chilaquiles, sincronizadas, gorditas, mole, pozole. Also: pupusas, tamales, burritos and some steak, chicken and fish. Most entrees are in the $8 range.

Munchies is right next to Rolling Spring Roll, at 191 Main St., Farmingdale, 516-852-1656. They deliver.

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