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Nader's Fish on the Run

The lobster roll at Nader's Fish on The

The lobster roll at Nader's Fish on The Run in Huntington. The croissant is baked on the premise. (April 16, 2011) Credit: Becky Holladay

It's a little past 7 p.m. and the sun continues to beat down on Huntington. Off the parking lot of  Nader's Fish on the Run, tall pine trees offer shade to some picnic tables. A member of our foursome commandeers one as the rest go inside to order at the counter.

Nader Gebrin, chef-owner of the nearby Bravo! Nader, offers a menu that's mostly (but not entirely) about seafood. Few frills, small tabs.

Although the weather is warm, a bowl of rich lobster bisque studded with pieces of shellfish is welcome. So, too, is the red Huntington clam chowder, briny and loaded with clams. I find slow-cooked barbecue pork ribs tender but a bit too saucy.

The baked crab cakes on my pal's sandwich are good, if a trifle dense. It pays to know beforehand that unless you request otherwise, that sandwich will come slathered with a pungent wasabi tartar sauce (not mentioned in the menu description).

Shrimp with broccoli in garlic sauce over whole-wheat pasta turns out light and flavorsome. The fresh and sprightly seafood salad (shrimp, scallops and calamari in a lemony vinaigrette over chopped lettuce) is more of an appetizer than a main course. But I have lots to eat with a whole branzino, crisp skin overlaying delicate fish, served with brown rice and steamed vegetables -- a bargain at $15.95.

The sky darkens behind the pines. A mother tells her little girl to be careful of the cars that maneuver in and out of the cramped parking lot. As we clear our foil and Styrofoam plates, a family stands by, waiting to take over the table.

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