The sea, the sky, the clouds, the sand. These are the Greek island hues of the strikingly decorated Neraki Mediterranean Grill. Whatever the weather may be in Huntington, you've got a view of the cool blue Aegean.
Chef and co-owner Alex Moschos is a frequent presence in the dining room, where he explains the fish and meat on display in a showcase. His is a market-driven menu.
The house specialty is whole fish, the price of which usually hovers a little below or above the $20 mark -- a real value when compared to the price at fancier Greek restaurants.
If you've never before had octopus, you owe it to yourself to try the tender, smoky, lemony tentacles here. Grilled loukaniko (Greek sausage) is similarly smoke-infused.
Spinach pie proves flaky, its interior bright and savory. I take home leftovers and eat it cold the next day. So very good.
One dinner starts with a pikilia (a three-spread assortment) featuring an airy, briny taramasalata (carp-roe mousse), garlic-infused hummus (chickpea spread) and lively melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant dip).
The smallest, least-expensive of the whole fish is grilled porgy, with lemon slices tucked inside. Somehow, I finish it all -- crisp, smoky skin and delicate flesh. But I do take time out to taste my companion's Greek meatballs, which are moist, flavorsome.
Another time, a friend's chicken souvlaki (grilled skewered chicken) wakes me up with its lemony zing. A grilled pork chop, from the specials board, turns out to be juicy, informed with the flavor of the grill. House-made fries (actually thin potato chips) are appealing accompaniments.
Ending the meal on a pleasingly sweet note: galaktoboureko, phyllo-wrapped vanilla pudding.
A friend and I share a whole grilled white snapper, neither of us able to find a hint of flavor. A side dish of green beans with tomatoes is overcooked to grayness. Otherwise-fine lemon potatoes are drenched in oil.
A welcome addition to the ever-changing Huntington mix.