Bon retour, Le Soir.
The traditional French restaurant, devastated by a fire in July, has come back, bright and bountiful. It's time for escargots and cassoulet.
Both stand out on a menu that could make you believe DeGaulle still rules France and French defines haute.
The snails are plump, herbaceous and bubbling in their dimpled plate. The cassoulet is full of perfectly cooked white beans plus duck and sausages. There's respectable onion soup, crisp-skinned duck a l'orange, and a chocolate mousse that's two scoops of rich nostalgia.
Le Soir is open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday, from 5 p.m.
Bastille Day will be fun this year.
Le Soir, 825 Montauk Hwy., Bayport; 631-472-9090.