I brake for hand-cut fries. Seriously, I pulled across two lanes of traffic to turn into the parking lot of the month-old Johnny's Burgers in Centereach.
I do wish the place would offer its burgers medium-rare, but they’re available well-done only. That said, my Black Angus cheeseburger ($3.95 for a quarter pounder) was good and greasy — in the best sense of the word. Owner Anthony DeLuca said he gets the meat delivered daily from a local butcher. Loved the Chicago dog ($3.75), a steamed, all-beef Sabrett's frank on a steamed bun topped with mustard, chopped onions and tomatoes, a pickle spear plus relish and sport peppers (both brought in from Chicago). The mark of authenticity: celery salt.
And, oh, those fries. Even a small order ($2.75) was huge. The cuts were golden brown, piping hot, with the sweet toasty flavor of fine Idaho spuds.
Johnny’s Burgers is at 2332 Middle Country Rd., Centereach, 631-676-3826.
Above: Cheeseburger, hot dog and fries at Johnny's Burgers, Centereach