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New in Great Neck: Crave 11025

Goat cheese and caramelized onion omelet with at

Goat cheese and caramelized onion omelet with at Crave 11025 in Great Neck Credit: Joan Reminick

Envision the lobby of a boutique hotel in Paris. Or Milan. Or Miami. That’s what Steven Dann did when he created Crave 11025 in Great Neck, a café whose  boudoir-ish decor dazzles with white and black tiled floors, bejeweled black chandeliers and clear Lucite chairs.

“When you’re in the suburbs and doing your work all day,” Dann said, “it almost feels like you're escaping to have a little affair.” (You may also want to escape to Dann's over-the-top shoe store across the street).

At the restaurant, the affair involves a simple, stylish meatless breakfast and lunch menu. On a recent morning, I was wowed by a friend’s goat cheese and caramelized onion omelet (more of a frittata) presented in its own little pan ($14). Alongside were “house fries,”  spicy-sweet and very good. I was moderately pleased with pecan pancakes with caramelized bananas and Canadian maple syrup ($12) but let down by flat lukewarm Belgian waffles ($12).

Crave's menu is big on salads (Caprese, chopped, hearts of palm and avocado) and also serves such items as a Caribbean bean wrap and a grilled feta plate with tarragon, basil, mint and tomatoes.

The place is open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday and 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday to Monday. Later this summer, the place will stay open until the wee hours on Saturday nights.

Crave 11025 is at 68 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-482-4800.

Caramelized onion and goat cheese omelet with "house fries" and whole grain toast at Crave 11025 in Great Neck




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