The brief stop I made at the new Sushi Ko in Merrick left me eager to return for more.
Two of us shared an appetizer of rock shrimp tempura ($7) that was crackling-crisp, lightly coated with spicy mayo. Loved the ornate “uptown” roll fashioned of spicy scallops with tempura flakes, chopped tuna, salmon, yellowtail, tobiko and scallions ($13). A surprise hit turned out to be a simple peanut avocado roll wherein perfectly ripe, silky avocado was juxtaposed with the crunch of salty-sweet nuts.
And Sushi Ko passed another test: Both rice and fish were served at ideal room temperature.
Sushi Ko is at 2063 Merrick Rd., Merrick, 516-378-9888.
Shown above is the rock shrimp tempura.