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New Suffolk: World tour at Legends

Legends looks terrific. Over the winter, owners Diane and Dennis Harkoff did a complete renovation, raising the roof line and installing taller windows, the better to appreciate the view of Cutchogue Harbor and Peconic Bay across the street. The new Legends reopened in May.

The best view may be from the sports-bar half of the establishment. Tables line the windows, but the bar itself is elevated a few feet. From that vantage point you can look east to the water, or west to the nearly 20 craft beers on tap. Chicken wings and a fried-flounder sandwich sampled from the bar menu were very satisfying.

Legends’ dining room looks even better than the bar. Lots of stone and wood and comfortable chairs. The decorative accents are aggressively global: an almost-life-sized carved wooden giraffe, Native American (looking) painting; Japanese (looking) textiles, ceiling fans reminiscent of Casablanca and, also suspended from the ceiling, a beautiful wooden racing shell, oars included. The tables are graced with blue Thai orchids.

Legends’ menu adheres to a similar eclecticism. We enjoyed “Mike’s calamari,” fried and then tossed with garlic and hot pepper, as well as a daily special, rich red-lentil soup. Less successful were “Thai sausage and shrimp wonton saucers,” fried squares of wonton wrapper topped with shrimp and . . . if that wasn’t crumbled Italian sausage then I’m the King of Thailand.

That same sausage showed up in a questionable “rigatoni ‘al modo mia [sic],’” a goopy concoction, and an exception to the rule that there’s no such thing as bad macaroni and cheese. Grilled striped bass with roasted tomato risotto and baby spinach was tasty, if uninspired. The fusion theme reached its height (or depth) with “Egyptian-style Dukkah shrimp,” which tasted as if they’d been dredged in potpourri. They were served with a pile of red quinoa that had been molded into a little pyramid. As they say in Zagat, “You’ll swear you’re on a barge on the Nile.”

Legends is at 835 First St., New Suffolk, 631-734-5123.

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