From the outside, Wild Wild West Saloon in Farmingdale appears to be just another one of those dark and gloomy bars that sprout up near railroad tracks. Good thing I got past the front door, because what I found was a veritable oasis of good, simple eats.
A horse mural decorates one wall (a requisite, I'm sure, at all restaurants with "Wild West" in their names) and a TV hangs over the bar. And while, yes, the ambience is dark, the wood surfaces in the spotless room gleam.
The cheeseburger I sampled ranks way up there — thick, juicy, smoky, alive with the mineral flavor of good beef. Hand-cut fries were toasty-sweet, lots better than the heavily breaded deep-fried fried pickle chips. A friend's crab burger, perhaps a bit too crusty on the outside, was nonetheless very good — lots of well-spiced crab meat and very little bread. Only the veggie burger was pedestrian.
The burger-centric bill of fare also features a long list of chicken sandwiches (a Philly, a Cajun, a Tuscan) along with fajitas and salads. Chicken wings, to be sure. And a kid's menu, called — you must have guessed by now — "Billy the Kid's Menu".
Wild Wild West Saloon is at 185 Main St., Farmingdale, 516-586-6526, wildwildwestny.com.
Crab burger and fries at Wild Wild West Saloon, Farmingdale