Nick & Toni's usually makes news when a celebrity eats there. It's the Hamptons official Hollywood canteen.
But, with the summer season ending, you can focus on chef Joseph Realmuto, who stars here all year.
And, post-Labor Day, it should be easier to get a table.
Leek-and-Gorgonzola ravioli and tender, herbaceous chicken with crushed Yukon gold potatoes and roasted garlic will ensure a satisfying entry into autumn. The vegetable-and-goat cheese terrine is excellent, too, along with the house's mainstay, penne in a spicy, oven-roasted tomato sauce.
Pastry chef Jessica Craig's blueberry crostata is ripeness defined, paired with a sorbet of opal basil and fior di latte, candied hazelnuts alongside. Her Wesnofske Farm roasted peach, with a gelato of lavender Catapano Dairy Farm goat-milk yogurt, is terrific.
Wear your shades.
Nick & Toni's, 136 N. Main St., East Hampton; 631-324-3550.
Photo: Blueberry crostata with gelato at Nick & Toni's.