Let the sushi wars begin.
Here’s the latest shot: Nisen One Ten, the eagerly awaited Melville branch of the Japanese-fusion group, has completed a major renovation and opened in the former home of Barolo.
Any trace of that long-standing, sedate Italian trattoria has been obliterated by the snazzy new sushi restaurant whose decor is an absolutely-of-the-moment blend of industrial chic and old barn — lots of reclaimed wood and old-timey light bulbs naked of fixture or shade.
The compact space is divided between lounge (with bar) and dining room (with sushi bar) and seats about 60 people. Nisen One Ten opened for business on Wednesday and, by Thursday lunch, was already mobbed. Parking valets had to use the nearby Sunoco station for the overflow cars.
And suddenly the Route 110 corridor, which once was Death Valley for restaurants, is a sushi stronghold. This opening follows the appearance of Be-Ju Sashimi & Sake Bar in Jewel restaurant nearby. Blackstone Steakhouse, within eyeshot, is a longstanding destination for sushi as well as beef. And the Italian restaurant Cirella's has a sushi chef and buoyant menu.
The Nisen group also opened Nisen 347 in St. James in December. Nisen Sushi is the veteran, situated in Commack. Last year, Nisen Woodbury closed.
Food at Nisen One Ten will reflect the menus at its siblings, which are known for their creative sushi rolls, traditional Japanese dishes, and some western fare, too. A sushi bar lunch special with soup and salad runs $10 to $18. Delivery is available.
Nisen One Ten is open for lunch Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; and for dinner, Monday to Wednesday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday to Sunday.
Nisen One Ten, 1197 Walt Whitman Rd., Melville; 631-421-8000.