There's a whimsical map of Long Island on a wall at Momi Ramen, the new noodle house in East Hampton. It traces a stylized journey from Miami, home to the original, to this equally summery northern branch.
Consider it a long-awaited arrival for devotees of ramen, the wheat-flour noodles that began in China and have been popularized beyond measure in Japan and many precincts of New York. Momi Ramen is in the former space of Wei Fun and Turtle Crossing.
The ramen is very good, the broth simmered for many more hours than it takes to reach Pantigo Road on a Friday evening. Choose from lush renditions with pork belly, oxtail or the plain production. You may like cold ramen, too.
Precede your ramen with excellent steamed shrimp dumplings, crisp fried chicken or a refreshing daikon salad. For dessert, try a green tea or red bean ice cream sandwich between Japanese pancakes; or green tea cheesecake.
And enjoy some fine cocktails, beers, wines, and sakes.
Momi Ramen, 221 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton; 631-324-1678.