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Good Afternoon

Northport newcomer: Fattusco's for pizza and more

Pappardelle rustica at Fattusco's in Northport

Pappardelle rustica at Fattusco's in Northport Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

Fattusco’s Gourmet Pizza, Pasta & Panini looks like nothing more than a place to grab a slice and a soda — that is, until you get a look at the menu. Fresh pasta? Sure thing. And it’s imported every week or so from Naples, according to owner Robert Scalza.

If you don’t mind ordering at the counter, you’ll be rewarded with some seriously good Italian food, courtesy of chef Brian Weiss (who cooked at Barolo in Melville). Pizza guy Lee Hunziger last tossed dough at Il Cane Rosso, a Neapolitan wood-oven pizzeria in Dallas.

On a recent visit, I started with an exemplary square of “grandpa” pizza ($2.75 slice, $18.95 whole pie), topped with tomatoes, caramelized onions and herbed bread crumbs. Fresh pappardelle rustica ($14.95) was a lusty toss of flat al dente noodles with crumbled sweet sausage, caramelized fennel, garlic, basil and San Marzano tomatoes. (Too bad the bread served on the side was supermarket-quality). I was impressed with a panino of thinly sliced porchetta (roasted seasoned pork loin) with baby arugula, red onion, smoked mozzarella and white truffle essence ($9.95), a heady mix of flavors, textures and temperatures.

In case you’re wondering, Fattusco is an entirely made-up name.

Fattusco’s Gourmet Pizza, Pasta & Panini is at 1019 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport, 631-651-9777

Pictured: Pappardelle rustico at Fattusco's

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