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Oceanside opening: Max's Kitchen

Max's Kitchen, Oceanside

Max's Kitchen, Oceanside Credit: Joan Reminick

Comfort food served in homey surroundings; that was the concept executive chef-owner Gary Schwartz had in mind when he opened Max’s Kitchen in Oceanside two months ago.

From what I could taste, on a recent midday visit, he’s succeeding.

Hand-cut fries were imbued with a nice nutty flavor, while a Cubano panino (roasted suckling pig, ham, Swiss, pickles and mustard) came off as soothing and piquant. Too bad the grilled chicken on an otherwise fine Cobb salad was waaaay overcooked.

House-made desserts are crowned with freshly whipped cream. I had to restrain myself from overindulging in a fine blueberry cobbler, presented in a parfait glass.

Also on the menu: burgers, a Philly cheesesteak, meat loaf, shepherd’s pie and, of course, macaroni and cheese. While only lunch and dinner are offered at present, Schwartz hopes to introduce breakfast soon.

Oh, and in case you're wondering about the identity of Max, he's Schwartz's teenage son.

Max's Kitchen is at 2710 Long Beach Rd., Oceanside, 516-280-8715,

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