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The Greenlawn burger at Old Fields restaurant in

The Greenlawn burger at Old Fields restaurant in Greenlawn consists of an 8 oz. burger with smoked applewood bacon, cheddar cheese and crispy onions, served with French fries and a pickle. (Jan. 8, 2011) Photo Credit: Heather Walsh

In 1956, Elvis recorded "Heartbreak Hotel," Ike was re-elected president and Old Fields Inn opened in Greenlawn. Until last year, the steakhouse near the LIRR tracks remained under the same family ownership. Then, David and Christine Tunney (he's a partner at HONU and Besito) bought the place, giving it a renovation respectful of its history. Today, the fireplace in the wood-paneled dining room glows as warm as ever.

What's changed is the addition of Wi-Fi and the availability of iPads for customers' use. Then, there's the affordable family-friendly menu. While a few steaks are offered, there also are sandwiches, salads and homey American entrees. Weekend brunch, too.

COMFORTS

The all-important burger aces it in terms of smoky, juicy, beefy goodness. A surprisingly close second is the hefty turkey burger topped with jalapeños, Jack cheese and green-tomatillo sausage. It's impossible to eat only a little of the creamy crumb-topped mac and cheese made with Cheddar, Fontina and Parmesan. Chef Luke Desanctis expertly deploys the original locally famous Old Fields steak marinade recipe in his tender skirt steak, served with arugula and shaved Parmesan. Roasted half chicken, offered as a special, is partially boned, moist and well burnished. One wintry night, a Guinness beef stew with root vegetables proves soul warming.

I'm wild about the pumpkin pancakes at brunch; they're hearty yet airy-light, served with caramelized bananas.

For dessert, it's hard to do better than a brownie sundae presented in a big Mason jar and garlanded with drifts of freshly whipped cream.

NOT BAD, BUT ...

Popcorn chicken is straightforward but boring. I wish the Cobb salad were more artistically presented instead of pre-tossed. The veggie burger with artichoke spread and tomato tastes fine, but it's a bit mushy. And the fries (previously frozen wedges of skin-on potato) are not in the same league as everything else.

BOTTOM LINE

Both Elvis and Ike would like this place. As do I.

 

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