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Open in Franklin Square: Frankly Thai

Drunken noodles at Frankly Thai in Franklin Square.

Drunken noodles at Frankly Thai in Franklin Square. Photo Credit: Joan Reminick

Frankly Thai came by its name three ways. For starters, the restaurant is in Franklin Square. Also, the co-owner’s name is Frankie Perrone (not a Thai name, but more on that later). And third, as Perrone tells it, he was watching a rerun of “Gone with the Wind” and was inspired by Rhett Butler’s last line (“Frankly, my dear …”).

At any rate, it’s a lovely spot and Perrone is an affable host. But, as he puts it the “real magic” comes from his wife, chef co-owner Jintana Lauchalermsuk Perrone.

Perrone met Jin Lauchalermsuk 12 years ago when she was cooking at Onzon Thai in Bellmore. He had ended up there rather than traveling to the Brooklyn restaurant whose pad Thai he considered tops.

Until he ate in Bellmore, that is. After ordering one after another after another serving of pad Thai, Perrone asked to meet the chef.  Lauchalermsuk came out and chatted with him. He gave her his phone number and two days later, she called him. They have been a couple ever since and travel to Bangkok regularly. They opened the restaurant several months ago.

At dinner, recently, I reveled in Jin Perrone’s “drunken noodles” with chicken, egg, peppers, onions and chilies, which I ordered spicy. What I got was deeply so — and yet truly comforting, too. A green curry with chicken was complex, utterly addictive. Less successful was milky tom kha gai (chicken coconut soup) with somewhat overcooked chicken. (I often encounter wan soups at the most authentic Thai restaurants, whereas a dynamite tom kha gai often heralds an Americanized meal with sweet, syrupy sauces).

Frankly Thai is at 959 Hempstead Tpke., Franklin Square, 516-616-4393.

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