Forget the rule book; it went out the window with the opening of Angelina’s Fireshack & Pizzeria in New Hyde Park. Preconceptions just don’t apply to this counter-service wing and pizza place where some of the food can be so fiery you have to sign a waiver to order it.
Co-owner (and majority partner) Shai Eapen came up with the concept, naming the place for his young daughter. Chef manager Arty Ruvinsky concocted most — but not all — of the recipes.
Here, Ruvinsky said, the pizza shouldn’t be thought of as Italian but rather an Americanized genre evoking “your favorite sandwich.” I tried two different toppings on a single 14-inch pie (there’s also a 9-inch “personal” size). Best was Eapen’s Indian-influenced invention: the “Desi” ($12, $19) made with Tandoor-baked chicken, basmati rice and cilantro on a bed of mozzarella. The guy behind the counter touted the “Big Mack” ($13, $20) — ground beef, lettuce, tomatoes, special sauce and — well, you know the rest. Although this version wasn't quite in the league of the Desi, it unquestionably worked. A big asset was the crust, at once crisp and wholesome-tasting.
Also sampled: Crazy good mac-and-cheese topped with hot dog bits ($8). And half a dozen meaty chicken wings ($9) with a medium-hot passion fruit habanero sauce. (Note that the “insanity” wings involve ghost peppers — which are palate-searing and are the ones that necessitate the signing of a waiver).
Sometime this fall, Ruvinsky said, Adam Richman of Travel Channel's “Man v. Food” is expected to show up to film a segment of his show. Watch for updates.
Angelina’s Fireshack & Pizzeria is at 1300 Jericho Tpke., New Hyde Park; 516-326-0100.
Combination “Desi” and “Big Mack” pizza at Angelina's Fireshack & Pizzeria, New Hyde Park