Veterans of Montauk dining remember Caswells and Aqua East. The new resident at the familiar address is the aptly named South Edison.
Midday, the appeal is the raw bar. Over the weekend, you could contentedly sample slightly briny kumamotos, flinty Point Judiths and hometown Blue Points while debating the merits of World Cup referees.
When the restaurant gets going in the evening, you'll be ready for lobster rolls, burgers, jerk-roasted Crescent Farm duck breast, and grilled tuna with orange peel, crushed coriander and Japanese eggplant. Dessert: ice cream sandwich with fudge brownies and salted caramel ice cream.
South Edison, 17 S. Edison St.; 631-668-4200.
"Time for oysters?"