Xaga of Merrick, the newer and bigger sibling to the Hewlett original, brings a repertoire of sushi and pan-Asian dishes to the bi-level space last occupied by Pantano’s.
The interior is handsomely done, in an understated Zen kind of way. A recent meal began with the ornate (and harmonious) Broadway roll fashioned of lobster, tempura flakes, avocado and mango. Chirashi featured an assortment of flawless fresh finfish plus the gratuitous cooked shrimp and surimi over a mound of well-seasoned rice. Lots of verve but too much sauce defined a friend’s shrimp and eggplant in garlic sauce. Best was an adroitly spiced order of chicken pad Thai made with moist, tender pieces of boneless breast.
Xaga of Merrick is at 217 Merrick Rd., Merrick, 516-379-8888.