Osaka, new to Shoreham, has the distinction of being the village's only Japanese restaurant. As such, the compact eatery covers a lot of bases. While sushi and traditional cooked dishes are the backbone of the menu, there’s also a roster of hibachi-style plates, which are made in the kitchen, minus the clanging knives and fanfare of most suburban hibachi palaces.
A recent dinner began with two shared maki rolls, both fresh and served at proper room temperature. I preferred the simpler spicy crunchy scallop roll ($8) to the rice-heavy Hawaii roll made with tuna, salmon and avocado topped with seared salmon, seaweed salad, yuzu and spicy mayonnaise ($13). A beautifully arranged chirashi bowl ($17) included a variety of finfish and pickled vegetables and, of course, the requisite surimi.
Also on the menu: tofu teriyaki ($11), chicken katsu ($15) and a salmon hibachi dinner ($19) that comes with clear soup, a salad, two pieces of shrimp appetizer, vegetables and either fried rice or noodles.
Osaka Japanese Restaurant is at 99-8 Rte. 25A, Shoreham, 631-821-1688.
Above: Chirashi at Osaka in Shoreham