Getting back to basics, The Homestead has returned to downtown Oyster Bay with lots of burgers and beer to go with them.
It's a comfortable spot, with plenty of exposed brick and black-and-white images of the old town. These days, the bar is busy pouring very good Samuel Adams Octoberfest, among others. And you can dive into a husky "meatloaf stack," a pile of slices, backed with slices of applewood-smoked bacon, caramelized onions, potatoes, broccoli and brown gravy.
The kitchen still offers pastas and steaks, as it did in the restaurant's Il Piatto period. You can pick pork osso buco without hesitation. But you'll feel more at Homestead with a pulled-pork sandwich buttressed with fries and cole slaw; the onion soup, under a lid of melted cheese; and, just because you're in his hometown, the Roosevelt salad, a bully combo of spinach, pear, pancetta, walnuts and blue cheese.
The Homestead, 107 South St., Oyster Bay; 516-922-9293.
Meat(loaf) and potatoes at The Homestead.