In the cavernous, theatrically-decorated dining room of this corporate-owned Chinese restaurant, you'll find some surprisingly good food.
Expect to be either be charmed or irked by your server, who will introduce himself or herself by name and perhaps ask yours. Expect a mini-lecture on the soy sauce, vinegar, chile paste and mustard ceremonionsly combined to make a dipping sauce, as well as suggestions (some intrusive) on how and what to order.
The zippy hot and sour soup is a good way to begin. Try an appetizer of red chile-sauced wontons. You'll enjoy rolling the "Chang's chicken in soothing lettuce wraps," a well-spiced stir-fry of diced chicken with large iceberg leaves. Traditional spare ribs are meaty and juicy.
From the roster of salads (great for lunch), try the grilled tuna, spice-encrusted and served over field greens.
Entree standouts included lemon pepper shrimp, crisp and spicy beef a la Szechuan, incendiary orange peel chicken and spicy ground chicken and eggplant. Dan dan noodles - fresh egg noodles with garlicky chicken sauce - excel.
Atypical of most Chinese restaurants are coffee and American-style desserts; best is the flourless chocolate cake. But hold the overly sweet raspberry puree garnish.
Characteristic of this poorly designed mall is an entrance hidden in a downstairs nook. Search the place out.