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Paddy McGees in Island Park

A DJ sets up to play music at

A DJ sets up to play music at Paddy McGees in Island Park. Credit: Newsday photo / Thomas A. Ferrara

Summer comes early and stays late at Paddy McGees.

This splashy, veteran fish house calls for lobsters, fried platters and a sunny twilight on the deck.

The casual eatery patterns itself on the vintage joints that used to populate lower Manhattan, a fish toss away from the ghosts of the Fulton market. Situated canalside, it gives you a water view as dessert.

You'll do fine here with all the basics, starting with oysters, their origins listed on a blackboard. Earlier this week, coppery Malpeques and sweet-salty Chincoteagues joined the Blue Points.

Cornmeal-crusted fried oysters also are recommended. They do a lot of frying at Paddy McGees, and if you're devoted to the stuff, sample the combo of lemon sole, sea scallops and shrimp.

Maine lobsters are the mainstay, either steamed, broiled or stuffed with crabmeat. Have yours steamed. The Maryland crab cakes are very good, too, as a full-blown main course or as sliders on potato rolls. Continue the New England theme with clam chowder. Enjoy the short season for soft-shell crabs with a tempura-style entree.

Some favorite finfish over the years include sesame seed-crusted tuna cooked rare; and the swordfish matched with a stew of tomato and fennel.

Dissenters can go for the sirloin burger or grilled New York strip steak; maybe, a chicken panino.

Everyone can agree on the brownie sundae - and the sunset.

 Paddy McGees, 6 Waterview Rd., Island Park, 516-431-8700, paddymcgeesfishhouse.com

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