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Parlay in Rockville Centre: First bites

A lobster roll is among the choices at

A lobster roll is among the choices at Parlay, a gastropub in Rockville Centre, May 2014. Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

The taps are flowing at Parlay in Rockville Centre, along with some good food to go with the brews.

Long Island's latest gastropub is a frothy addition, full of excellent beers. It's an industrial-style space, all exposed brick and ductwork, with a concrete floor and bar, plus picnic-bench seating to supplement the tables.

You'll find a series of TVs stretching almost the depth of the place, so the NHL, NBA and MLB all can be yours by turning slightly. Coupled with the into-it crowd and the suds, it's a very stimulating joint.

There are a few spirited surprises from the kitchen. Try the tasty "Peking duck" steamed buns, filled with duck confit, hoisin sauce, scallion, cilantro and pickles; or the flavorful beef short rib sliders, slathered with onion jam, tomato marmalade and Gorgonzola cheese. Or pick an ample lobster roll.

Parlay's list of brews contains locals, nationals and internationals, well-chosen and varied. There are at least 40 of them. Go with a group. The motto here is "In Hops We Trust."

Parlay, 210 Merrick Rd., Rockville Centre; 516-442-2600.

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