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Chef shines at Pentimento in Stony Brook

Roasted butternut squash tortelli served at Pentimento in

Roasted butternut squash tortelli served at Pentimento in Stony Brook in November 2014. Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

Your first holiday gift has arrived.

Massimo Fedozzi is back to his stellar form at Pentimento, Dennis Young's longstanding Italian landmark. Fedozzi, who earned high praise for his cooking at the now-gone Vero in Amityville and Palio in Jericho, runs the kitchen. And his regional Italian food is excellent.

Try tortelli di zucca -- airy, slightly sweet, stuffed with roasted butternut squash, finished with butter-and-sage sauce and Grana Padano cheese. Cut into the pan-roasted Berkshire pork chop, atop braised cabbage and crowned with mostarda. And definitely order the addictive polenta fries.

Fedozzi's new menu includes a fine selection of cured meats and cheeses, a trio of sliders, several small plates, from rice balls to meatballs and pork ribs to caponata, all of which encourage sharing and lingering. You'll want to do both.

Pentimento, 93 Main St., Stony Brook; 631-689-7755. pentimentorestaurant.net

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