House-cured bacon, a beet cocktail, local monkfish and radish-top pesto all make appearances inside a sleek new American restaurant in Garden City.
Chef Peter Mistretta has opened Perennial on Franklin Avenue after nearly a year of planning and build out. An alum of one of Manhattan’s most celebrated farm-to-table restaurants (Back Forty), Mistretta has rolled out a succinct menu focused on seasonally in-tune ingredients, such as roasted carrots with goat cheese, radishes and marcona almonds ($13) and pork-shoulder ragu, chilies and pecorino cheese with a pasta called maccheroncini ($18).
“For now, the menu is limited, but we’re giving vegetables the same respect that we do with meat,” said Mistretta, whose chef du cuisine is Joe Shortt . More dishes will be added in coming weeks, he added, as will weekend brunch. “We want to keep it interesting for people in the community.”
Other dishes include glossy Parker House rolls with butter ($3); local monkfish with littleneck clams, leeks, and farro ($27); and, for dessert, olive-oil cake with beet frosting, citrus marmalade and hazelnuts ($9). The kitchen cures its own bacon for an appetizer of bacon with apples, mustard seed and kale ($15).
Beets reappear on the cocktail menu in the form of Heart Beet (vodka, caracara orange, agave, Combier liqueur and elderflower foam, $15). Beverage director Harrison Chedd, formerly of Hush Bistro in Huntington, also oversees a wine program that spans several local wines on tapand Long Island bottles such as white pinot noir from Anthony Nappa Wines and sparkling rose from Bedell Cellars.
The 68-seat eatery has a sleek, spare look, with lone hanging bulbs, a curved bar and exposed ductwork running along the 14-foot ceilings. Come milder weather, Mistretta hopes to place 10 to 12 seats outside.
Mistretta trained at the French Culinary Institute and was a line cook under pioneering chef Peter Hoffman at SoHo’s Back Forty, originally called Savoy. There, Mistretta was influenced by his boss’ commitment to seasonal ingredients, and said he is building relationships with Long Island farms for the upcoming season. MarGene Farms and Hamlet Organic Gardens, both on the East End, are two of his purveyors.
Perennial is open for dinner, starting at 5 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday.
Perennial, 990 Franklin Ave., Garden City. 516-743-9213. perennialrestaurant.com.