Since 2006, the Persian restaurant Colbeh has occupied a quaint cottage set back from Mineola Avenue in Roslyn. “Colbeh,” it turns out, means “cottage” in Farsi, and after a short renovation, it has reopened as “The Cottage by Colbeh.”
Colbeh’s fusty décor — all carved wood, brocade and brass — has given way to robins-egg blue walls, a reclaimed wood bar, glossy-white trim and contemporary lighting.
The kosher menu, supervised by the Vaad Harabonim of Queens, still features traditional Persian salads, kebabs and stews, but also boasts such modern appetizers as boneless short ribs with Yukon Gold potato pancakes and horseradish cream, and duck taco with enoki mushrooms and daikon radish in a sweet-potato shell (both $14.50). Most mains are under $35.
The building’s exterior has been painted, new landscaping has been planted, the parking lot has been resurfaced.
The Cottage by Colbeh is at 1 The Intervale, Roslyn, 516-621-2200, colbeh.com