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Pico Tequila in Bay Shore: First bites

Fish taco and pork carnita taco at Pico

Fish taco and pork carnita taco at Pico Tequila in Bay Shore in March 2014 Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

A recent lunch at the new Pico Tequila Grill in Bay Shore was a sweet affair — in some ways, a bit too sweet.

The restaurant, which occupies the former home of Smokin’ Al’s Famous BBQ Joint, is a hip-looking knockout done with reclaimed barn wood and brick, which serves as a canvas for colorful wall art. Chef co-owner John Pellegrino's inexpensive Mexican-accented menu looks intriguing.

But a starter of lump crab salsa, served with nacho chips ($11.95), was rendered far too sweet by mandarin orange segments. And a pineapple pork quesadilla ($8.95), with syrupy citrus BBQ sauce, was positively cloying. Best was a savory pork carnitas taco ($3,50) with house-made soft corn tortillas. A fish taco ($3.95), topped with cabbage and pico de gallo, would be best ordered without the cilantro ranch dressing on top. It's a bit overwhelming.

The place features an interesting array of tequilas and tequila drinks, giving a night time allure.

Pico Tequila Grill is at 19 W. Main St., Bay Shore, 631-647-8907,