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Pita House, East Setauket: Search it out

People dine at the Pita House in East

People dine at the Pita House in East Setauket. Credit: Newsday, 2009 / Thomas A. Ferrara

Recently, I returned to the four-year-old Pita House in East Setauket, a spinoff of the original Patchogue restaurant. The spacious dining spot requires a concerted effort to find, since it’s secreted away in a building behind Wild By Nature.

A few changes have gone down since I last visited. For one thing, meze, assorted dips and spreads, are no longer offered from a cart; they can either be ordered as a combination platter ($18), listed among entrees, or individually — the route I took. Both the crimson ezme salad ($6.50) — a spicy but not fiery mix of vegetables and nuts — and the hummus proved satisfying and savory.

Another change: The dinner menu is priced a few dollars higher than what’s posted on the website. Although prices seem a bit high, each entree is preceded by soup or a shepherd’s salad. I found both the red lentil and dill-spiked chicken lemon orzo soups very good,  the shepherd’s salad — chopped cucumber, tomato and lots of parsley — particularly lively.

But I hit a wall when I wanted to order chicken chops, listed as part of a “mixed chicken” grill ($20). No, I was told after the waiter went to check in the kitchen, I couldn’t get it as a single entree. I went with chicken Adana kebab ($19), skewered ground poultry, which came across as juicy and well-spiced. My companion’s grilled vegetable sandwich ($14) was surprisingly vibrant and savory.

The meal ended with kazandibi ($4.50), a burned sugar-topped Turkish custard: very light, very good.

Pita House is at 100-27 S. Jersey Ave., East Setauket, 631-675-9051.

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