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Pizza: Appreciating the classics

Sausage pie at Salvatore's in Port Washington.

Sausage pie at Salvatore's in Port Washington. Credit: Erica Marcus

“Pizza gets serious,” in today’s Newsday, extols the virtues of Long Island’s new wave of artisanal pies. The food staff profiles a dozen 12-inch pizzas distinguished by the artistry of their production and the quality of their ingredients.

But let’s not forget the scores of local pizzerias around the Island that excel at the classic Long Island triumvirate of Neapolitan, Sicilian and Grandma, nor the handful of pizzerias pulling pies out of coal-driven brick ovens. Here are some staff favorites:
26 N. Park Ave., Rockville Centre, 516-763-4900,
Crisp blistered pies baked in a coal oven are the definition of old fashioned Italian goodness. An all-out debauch is the Blue Moon Special, topped with peppers, onions, mushrooms and sausage.
329 New York Ave., Huntington , 631-423-9620.
A classic Brooklyn-style Neapolitan slice is all you need to set the world right. The crust is crunchy and thin, puffy around the edges, holding molten sauce and cheese. Fold it down the middle and it oozes beautifully.
440 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Hicksville , 516-938-1555. Rectangles rule at this pizza pasta palace. You’ll want to finish every last bit of crust and topping, whether your slice is Sicilian, grandma or marinara (no mozzarella, just great San Marzano tomato sauce).
124 Shore Rd., Port Washington, 516-883-8457
Salvatore’s is the grandaddy of coal-oven pizzerias on Long Island; its sausage pie about as close to heaven as you can get in Nassau County.
Satelite Pizza
799 Montauk Hwy., Bayport; 631-472-3803
Very good for variety and quality; fine Sicilian, Grandma, white pies.
633 Jericho Tpke., New Hyde Park; 516-437-7698
A Long Island landmark to rival the Big Duck in Flanders. And the trunk of a genealogical pizza tree whose branches include King Umberto’s in Elmont and Da Angelo in Alberson.

 The sausage pie at Salvatore's in Port Washington


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