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Pizza Fabbrica opens in Hicksville

Pizza Fabbrica in Hicksville has three wood-burning ovens.

Pizza Fabbrica in Hicksville has three wood-burning ovens. (Dec. 6, 2013) Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

Pizza Fabbrica, a huge new pizzeria, has opened next to the huge Planet Fitness in the shopping center on South Broadway just south of where it merges with South Oyster Bay Road.

It’s a terrific-looking place, all reclaimed wood and industrial chic (befitting the name, which means “pizza factory”). One side is devoted to a lively lounge, but the main attraction is three wood-burning ovens that look out on the main dining room. The exteriors of the ovens are intricately tiled and bear the names of the restaurant’s principals, LaForte, Presta and Fusco — a partnership now literally set in stone.

The menu lists nine 12-inch pizzas ranging in price from $12 (for the Margherita) to $15 (for the Fabbrica, with mozzarella, tomato sauce, pepperoni, sausage, peppers and onions). There are also calzones (starting at $12) and about a dozen salads and appetizers ($7 -$12).

On a Friday night the place was hopping. I perched on a stool at the bar overlooking the ovens and watched the seven pizzaioli craft pie after pie after pie. My Margherita was sparsely (perhaps too sparsely) topped with sweet tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. The crust was nicely done, though I would have liked a bit more puff around the edges.

Pizza Fabbrica, serving lunch and dinner, is at 1040 S. Broadway, Hicksville, 516-597-4792.

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