Umberto Corteo is in expansion mode. After opening his seventh Long Island pizzeria in Manhasset in April, it only took him six months to open No. 8 in Massapequa Park.
The new restaurant takes over the Park Boulevard premises that used to be Thai Taste.
Manhasset marked a stylistic departure for Umberto’s, abandoning the upscale suburban pizzeria look for a retro-chic design featuring subway tiles, Edison lights and reclaimed wood. Massapequa Park has the same décor, even though it consists of one long pizza counter and four booths. There’s no table service, and food for dine-in customers is served in takeout containers.
That setup, however, is temporary. Umberto’s has also taken over the neighboring store, formerly Bar Harbor Gallery and Frame Shop, and when the construction is complete (in the next few months), the two spaces will be joined into one, grand restaurant, complete with tables, servers, china and stemware.
The Massapequa Park menu, a document that epitomizes the Long Island pizzeria-trattoria tradition, has cribbed a few items from Manhasset, which, under the presiding spirit of Corteo’s Neapolitan nephew, Mike Di Santolo, earned two stars from Newsday, including the Corleone panino, a fried chicken cutlet with broccoli rabe, mozzarella and cherry peppers on a crusty, homemade roll.
Umberto’s opened in New Hyde Park in 1965 and has spawned satellites in Bellmore, Plainview, Wantagh, Lake Grove, Garden City and Manhasset.
Umberto’s is at 1011 Park Blvd., Massapequa Park, 516-541-3030, umbertosofmassapequa.com.