Producing pizzas, calzones and pastas in Commack is the new Pizzaiolo Gourmet Eatery, which takes over the shopping center space last occupied by Via Italia. Co-owners John Campanella and Sal Grana formerly owned Buon Appetito in Smithtown. ("Pizzaiolo" means pizza maker in Italian.)
On a recent afternoon, I ordered a simple marinara square, which had as its star ingredient a particularly lively and herbal sauce. Except for a light dusting of Pecorino Romano, the pie was cheese-free -- and, still succeeded eminently. My companion's upside-down Sicilian slice had mozzarella underneath the tomato sauce (which was different from the marinara) on top. Also, a hit.
Although the contemporary little pizza parlor has only counter service, its surprisingly large menu lists such options as pasta e fagioli, mussels marinara, kale salad, baked manicotti, pasta with white clam sauce, chicken scarpariello and shrimp scampi -- at $19.99, the costliest dish.
Pizzaiolo Gourmet Eatery is at 118 Commack Rd., Commack, 631-486-9300.